Thorsten Chlupp is in a very much more challenging weather and he seems to be accomplishing great with simple free fill over the attic flooring....needless to say he is employing "enough" quantities (cellulose galore)and he has baffles close to the soffit.
You will be describing a cathedral ceiling that includes all probable mistakes. There was no focus to air sealing. The worst possible insulation was utilized (fiberglass). And also the roof assembly is unvented. So it is actually no surprise that you are seeing condensation.
I think that Bill Rose is correct: every one of these failures involve moisture that is carried by shifting air. These are typically not diffusion failures. In the event the rafter bays really are appropriately dense-packed -- a major if -- the possibility of air movement is quite reduced.
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For anyone who is deciding on to create a vented roof assembly, don’t ignore to incorporate soffit vents and ridge vents.
Many thanks for the response Martin. Would you still be pleased to work with that unvented method for any renovation situation where by There is certainly non-breathable membrane (eg bitumous 'felt') over strong board sheathing?
Thanks for your proposed addition to the list of products for creating site-constructed vent baffles. I have edited the textual content of my site to include your suggestion.
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I haven't got loads of space previously mentioned or under the roof structure for insulation / venting. Would a flash / batt unvented assembly work under the single sheathing deck? My insulator has completed quite a few of those regionally.
As your home flexes with alterations of temperature It really is feasible, even likely that a few of the foamed-in air sealing will leak. It'd be worthy of undertaking two" of open mobile foam on the interior facet of which would be a more versatile and responsible long-term air seal.
With this system , there is no problems with a full peel-stick roof underlayment in addition to the deck is there? I've a steel roof on this project as well as the underlayment will be fully adhered to the roof sheathing.
Re: the air barrier for being put previously mentioned the pine T&G ceiling and below the foam, would you advise that we use something and that is the two an air barrier in addition to a vapor barrier? Or could it be vital to make certain that the product we decide on is NOT a vapor barrier, to ensure any humidity that receives in to the roof assembly can dry to the inside?
Just like all sorts of vent baffles, it’s a good idea to pay attention to airtight design procedures, especially if you will end up setting up air-permeable insulation in the rafter bays. Seal the edges of each panel with caulk, and tape the seams among panels using a higher-quality tape. (For anyone who is putting in air-permeable insulation like fiberglass, mineral wool, or cellulose, the air flow baffle isn’t optional; it’s necessary.
I've previously insulated the steep view website sides of my unvented mansard roof with 6" fiberglass (and I had it inspected), does one recommend I rip that out and use spray or board foam? I've gotten conflicting details on whether or not to take care of it like a wall or simply a roof.